Scuba diving is undoubtedly a popular ocean activity, especially for those who love to explore the hidden beauty of the ocean. However, it requires quite a bit of preparation. Before you can attempt a safe and enjoyable foray into the ocean’s depths, you will need to acquire the physical skill, knowledge, and technical training necessary to complete a successful dive; the first diving certification is the Open Water Course. But most importantly, you will need to equip yourself with the right scuba diving gear.
For a new diver, buying scuba diving gear is the final step, the act that says “I’m committed to really enjoying diving.” But if you’re newly certified, how are you supposed to know what scuba diving gear to buy?
Relax. Between our advice and your instructor’s help, we’ll have you outfitted in no time. It’s helpful to think of buying scuba gear in two phases: first, the basic stuff you need for class; second, the major pieces of life support: dive computer, regulator and BCD. Let’s start with these scuba diving gear basics.
What is scuba Diving Gear?
Scuba diving equipment allows you to visit the underwater world by making it possible to breathe, see and move comfortably while below the surface. Gear helps you change from being a land-dweller to somewhat of an aquatic being – if only for a little while. A mask lets you see clearly. A scuba regulator and tank provide the air you need. Fins allow you to swim efficiently, and a wetsuit helps you stay warm. Whether you’re just starting as a scuba diver or you’re an experienced diver looking for new equipment, you’ll find helpful suggestions and tips in this section. Keep in mind that fit, comfort and suitability are the three most important considerations when choosing gear, but you don’t have to sacrifice colour coordination and looking good. Your local dive shop is a great place to get more information and assistance in finding the best scuba diving gear for you.
- Diving Mask
- Regulator
- BCD
- Exposure Suit
- Fins
- Cylinder & Weights
- Dive Computer
- DSMB
- Knife
- Dive Light
- Dive Compass
- Snorkel
- Underwater Camera
Diving Mask (Essential)
A diving mask will be your eyes when you’re underwater. The best kind of diving mask is one that fits well, is comfortable, and lets you easily see underwater.
The mask creates an air space in front of your eyes that allows them to focus under water. The nose pocket allows you to equalize the air pressure in your mask as you go deeper.
One tip to help find a mask that fits well is to hold the mask lightly against your face and breathe in slightly with your nose. This will create a gentle suction and hold the mask in place. If this doesn’t work or is not comfortable, the mask may not fit well, so make sure you choose one that is a good fit. Otherwise, you will need to quickly learn how to master the ‘clear water from your mask’ skill from your Open Water Course!
Need to buy a new mask? Come visit us during your stay in Gran Canaria and we’ll help you out to choose the best fit for you.
Regulator (Essential)
A regulator is a piece of equipment that makes it possible for you to breathe the compressed air from your scuba tank. It converts the highly pressurized air into ambient pressure, allowing you to breathe. It must also deliver air to other places, such as your BC inflator and alternate second stage.
The good news: among major-label regulators — the kind sold in dive stores — there is no junk. Regulators have been perfected to the point that even budget regulators can offer high performance. However, you must do your homework before buying this vital piece of gear.
A regulator comes with two parts: first stage and second stage. The first stage connects to the tank that you wear on your back, and the second stage is what you put in your mouth. Comfort is critical here, so pick a regulator that makes you feel secure in the water.
Finally, you’ll want to add a Scuba Octopus to act as your backup breathing apparatus in case of emergency and a pressure gauge that allows you to view how much air you have remaining in your cylinder.
The best regulators can deliver a high volume of air at depth, under heavy exertion even at low tank pressures. Some regulators also have diver-controlled knobs and switches to aid this process, so it’s important to understand the controls and how they work.
Comfort. Look for a comfortable mouthpiece and have your local dive store select hoses of the right length for you.
Try as many regulators as you can in real-world diving situations. Breathing on a regulator in a dive store tells you nothing about how it will perform under water.
Our Advice – You’ve got to do your homework to find the best regulator available for your budget. Talk to dive store personnel, you instructor and experienced divers.
Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) (Essential)
The BCD is the most complex piece of dive gear you’ll own and one of the most important. So choose carefully based on the style of diving you’ll be doing most.
A buoyancy control device is used to achieve and maintain neutral buoyancy throughout the dive. It’s a jacket that you wear during your dive that helps you manage your buoyancy. Many BCDs include integrated weight pockets, eliminating the need for a separate weight belt. It also, holds your gear in place, lets you carry a tank with minimal effort and floats you at the surface.
The BCD should not restrict your breathing. While you’ve got the BCD on, test all valves for accessibility and ease of use, then make sure the adjustments, straps and pockets are easy to reach and use.
Pay particular attention to the inflator hose. Is it easy to reach and extend over your head? Make sure there’s a clear distinction between the inflate and deflate buttons and that you can operate them easily with one hand.
Our Advice – This is an important piece of equipment that you can expect to use for many years. Don’t skimp; go for quality. Test as many different models as you can in real diving situations before buying.
Wetsuit or Drysuit (Essential)
Wetsuit
A well-fitting wetsuit can be the difference between a great dive and a horrible dive. A wetsuit that is too tight will make it difficult to move around in the water. On the other hand, a wetsuit that is too loose can let water in and you could be cold and uncomfortable. The ideal wetsuit should fit like a second skin, not too tight, but free of any gaps or folds. Flexibility is important too, you need to be able to stretch your body in the water.
Form-fitting exposure suits are usually made of foam neoprene rubber (wetsuits) or spandex-like materials (skins), sometimes with a fleece lining.
Exposure suits insulate you against the cooling effect of water, which can rob your body of heat 25 times faster than air. The thickness and type of exposure protection you need depends on dive conditions. Simple Lycra suits provide little thermal insulation, but do help protect against scrapes and stings.
A wetsuit keeps you warm in two ways:
Keeping Water Out. Any water that gets inside the suit is going to leak out again. When the water is inside, it absorbs some of your body heat. When it leaves, it takes that heat with it. So the first thing a wetsuit has to do is keep the cold ocean from flushing through it. A good fit, one that feels equally snug everywhere, is critical, so the space the ocean wants to use to flow along your skin is as small as possible.
Providing Insulation Against Heat Loss. A little science here: Solids and liquids conduct heat well; gases do not. Air, for example, is about 20 times less conductive than water. As a practical matter, good insulation — above or below water — is all about trapping air. That’s why neoprene foam works so well. Gas bubbles are permanently trapped inside the “closed cells” of the wetsuit material.
Some features can help the suit do its job. They include: wrist, collar and ankle seals; sealing flaps behind zippers; pre-bent arms and legs; and smooth inner coatings to minimize water flow inside the suit.
Drysuit
A dry suit (or drysuit) is another type of exposure protection and one particularly suited to colder climates.
Different from wetsuits, drysuits create a watertight seal and allow you to layer dive-specific undergarments based on the thermal protection desired.
Waterproof construction, built-in boots and seals around the neck and wrist keep water out. So, they offer extra warmth by (and the clue is in the name) keeping you dry during a dive.
Generally, divers convert from wetsuits to drysuits if they are regularly diving in cold water or for extended periods of time. Choosing a drysuit is a personal preference, but before you choose, consider what type of diving you do, the amount of thermal protection you need, and what material best suits you. Getting your drysuit certification is recommended. The Dry Suit Diver course introduces the different types, as well as the essential skills that a drysuit diver needs to know, such as venting, finding the compressor hose, and disconnecting the inflator.
Our Advice – As long as a wetsuit fits correctly, it will do the job. If you’re going the budget route, your choices will usually be limited to basic models.
Exposure Suit Comfort Zones
Water Temp
29-25 C (1.6mm – 3mm) neoprene, Lycra
24-21 C (3mm – 5 mm) neoprene
21-18 C (5mm – 7.5mm) neoprene, semi dry
18-10 C (7.5mm) neoprene, semi dry, dry suit
18-0 C (9.5mm) neoprene, semi dry, dry suit
We’ll show you how to pick the perfect wetsuit for cold and warm weather diving conditions.
Fins (Essential)
Fish don’t have legs for the simple reason that fins are the best way to move through water. So if you’re going to play in the fish’s territory, you need a good set of fins too.
Fins give you control of your movement and let you glide through the water with agility. There are variety of fins available on the market, all used in different scenarios. For example, full foot fins are used in warm water. Open heel fins may be used in either warm or cold water, but booties are required. Just like with every other essential scuba diving equipment, comfort is key here.
When trying on fins, look for a snug fit that doesn’t pinch your toes or bind the arches of your feet. If you can’t wiggle your toes, the fins are too small.
The efficiency of fins is largely determined by their size, stiffness, and design. Divers with strong leg and hip muscles can efficiently use a bigger, stiffer fin. Smaller divers or less conditioned divers will be more comfortable with smaller, more flexible fins. Finally, make sure buckles and straps are easy to use.
Our Advice – Choosing the right pair is important to prevent muscle fatigue and cramping. Good fins will enhance your enjoyment of diving; bad ones can ruin it.
What type is right for you? Here’s a look at some considerations to keep in mind when choosing a pair.
Full-Foot or Open-Heel Fins?
- Full-foot fins don’t require dive boots and are best suited mainly for warm waters.
- The straps of open-heel fins can be adjusted for the different boots you may wear or for different family members and children as they grow.
- Open-heel fins require less effort to put on, especially if a pull tab is added to the strap.
- The dive boots required with open-heel fins also provide foot protection and comfort while diving and walking.
Cylinder, Tank (Essential)
If asked ‘what equipment do you need for scuba diving?’, chances are a scuba tank will be one of the first things that come to mind. It contains the high-pressure breathing gas you’ll rely upon underwater, controlled by a valve that connects to your regulator. Typically made from steel or aluminium, cylinders range in size and capacity but 12L (metric countries) or 80 cu ft (North America) are the most popular. Although you might see different configurations (such as twin cylinders or sidemount), a single tank strapped to your BCD is the most common setup for beginners.
At Brothers Diving we use 10, 12 and 15L Cylinders filled either with Air or Nitrox.
Don’t have Enriched Air Nitrox certification yet? Sign up fo the course with us to discover the benefits of diving with Nitrox.
Weights: Integrated Weights and Weight Belts (Essential)
Who has jumped into the water and either sunk straight to the bottom or floated on top of the water even after deflating? Do you struggle to maintain your buoyancy or keep tipping forwards and rolling sideways? You might need to rethink your weighting and trim.
Most divers either wear a weight belt while diving or use an integrated weight system that holds their weights in the weight pockets. While all divers generally need extra weight to get to the bottom, it is entirely up to the diver and their equipment whether they would like to wear a weight belt or carry their weights in their BCD.
Dive Computer (Essential)
Nobody enjoys working the dive tables, but they’re an invaluable tool for safe diving. Dive computers are an even better tool for the same reason a laptop is better than a slide rule.
By constantly monitoring depth and bottom time, dive computers automatically recalculate your no-decompression status, giving you longer dive times while still keeping you within a safe envelope of no-decompression time. Computers can also monitor your ascent rate and tank pressure, tell you when it’s safe to fly, log your dives and much more. That’s why dive computers are almost as common as depth gauges these days.
The most feature-packed dive computer does you no good if you can’t easily and quickly access the basic information you need during a dive: depth, time, decompression status and some also tank pressure. Some models have both numeric and graphic displays for at-a-glance information.
Some computers are conservative in their calculations, automatically building in safety margins; others take you to the edge of decompression and trust you to build in your own safety margins. Only RSD publishes a chart ranking the relative conservatism of dive computers on the market today.
Before you buy, ask to see the owner’s manual and check it out. Complete and easy-to-understand instructions are important, especially on feature-packed machines.
Our Advice
Begin with an honest evaluation of your diving needs — do you plan to use mixed gases someday to do decompression diving? Study the features of different computers and choose the one that offers the mix of features you need at the best price.
Delayed Surface Marker Buoy (Essential)
A delayed surface marker buoy (DSMB) is a long, cylindrically shaped tube and is sometimes called a safety sausage. They are carried in a rolled-up shape by the diver during the dive and are inflated when needed. Delayed surface marker buoys are brightly coloured to increase visibility.
DSMBs can be deployed while submerged, so the most important rule when choosing a DSMB is to verify that there is enough line on the reel or spool to enable the buoy to reach the surface.
Dive Knife or Cutting Tool (Essential)
Made out of either stainless steel or titanium, dive knives have either a sharp cutting edge or a serrated (sawing) edge, though some have both. They’re occasionally used by divers to free themselves from entangled fishing lines or underwater plants. They can also be used to tap on tanks to get another diver’s attention.
For serious divers, they are an indispensable tool that come in a variety of styles and sizes and are useful items to keep in your dive bag. A dive knife can be stored in your BCD or strapped to one of your limbs, just make sure it’s in an easily accessible place in case you need to use it.
Dive Light (Advanced)
For those who have more than a few dives under their belt, dive lights provide critical lighting when scuba diving at night or swimming through caves or crevices. They’re helpful during daytime dives as well, providing critical light when exploring cracks and crevices, and bringing out more vibrant colour in the sea.
Dive Compass (Advanced)
While most likely not needed for beginner dives, a dive compass is something that advanced divers should add to their scuba diving gear checklist. Most diving compasses are built into your dive computer or console, and are crucial to navigate during the dive. Knowing where you are is essential during a dive, especially when there is low visibility. It prevents you getting lost, plus it helps prevent panicking and using more air than needed.
Depending on your preference, these devices come in both analogue and digital forms.
Snorkel (Accessories)
Snorkels are required during dive certification. They’re a great tool for keeping ocean spray out of your mouth on the surface and for snorkelling with or without your tank.
As a diver, you primarily use a snorkel to conserve air in your tank when on the water’s surface.
Our Advice – If you don’t plan on doing a lot of snorkelling, this is the one piece of gear you can skimp on. Get a simple, basic model and be done with it.
Underwater Camera (Accessories)
An underwater camera is by no means an essential tool, but it is a fun one. Capturing marine flora and fauna and the incredible underwater sights is a very rewarding part of diving. There are many underwater cameras to choose from, and it’s up to each diver to decide what works best for them. Nowadays, most divers use GoPro cameras along with waterproof housings and cases to allow them to go even deeper.
Other Accessories
Other things you may need for scuba diving include tank bangers, a defogger, dive knives, writing slates, underwater lights, a dive logbook, and of course, a first aid kit.
Writing Slates
One of the most commonly-used underwater writing devices by divers, writing slates are plastic underwater notepads with unique water-friendly pencils. Writing slates are used for communication to other divers or to write down specific details about a photo, a dive, a location, or anything else you may want to write down. Writing slates are available in different sizes, from wrist slates to larger magnetic slates.
Defogger
Having a fogged-up mask can prevent you from having a fun and safe dive. It’s important to treat it with a defogger before every dive. There are many defogging products that are specifically made for scuba masks. However, you can also use baby shampoo or, believe it or not, spit.
Dive Logbook
Divers often use a logbook to record the details of their previous dives, either for safety or personal purposes. It has various sections such as the header, which contains basic dive information such as the date, time, and location; the dive log profile, which allows you to record your bottom time, maximum depth reached, and more; and other sections that allow you to list the equipment you used, the conditions during the dive, wildlife encounters, and other aspects of the dive.
While certainly not a necessary item, many divers use logbooks at the start of their dive careers, as dive records are required when taking additional courses or when venturing to certain dive locations. Divers then ditch their logbooks once they dive more regularly, relying more on their computers for record keeping.
Nowadays it’s easier to keep a digital logbook on your phone by using a diving app. If you are certified with SSI, you can use the Logbook integrated in the MySSI app. Otherwise, suitable for anybody, there is the Mares app that we are happy to recommend. If you are a stamp lover you can buy a paper logbook from our diving shop in Gran Canaria during your next trip.
Dry Bag
Similar to dry boxes, dry bags are waterproof bags that protect items and keep them from water, dust, and sand while out on diving tours or other outdoor adventures. These bags can hold anything from fins to beach towels to cameras. They come in a variety of sizes and are great to use on the dive boat.
First Aid Kit
When you’re always indulging in adventurous activities, you learn pretty quickly that a first aid kit is always a smart thing to have with you in case of medical emergencies. A good medical kit should have medications for pain and allergies, wound care items, and survival items like an emergency reflective blanket.
Where Sould You Buy Gear?
Scuba gear can be purchased in dive stores, at other retail outlets, by mail order or as used equipment from private parties. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages to each.
Private party. Buying used gear from a private party may be the cheapest possible way to go, but provides absolutely no guarantees. Unless you are extremely knowledgeable or an equipment technician, you will not know if a regulator, for example, can even be serviced. We recommend not buying used life-support equipment from private parties unless you trust them!
Nondive store retail outlets. Sporting goods and discount stores may have scuba diving gear for sale. Some of these stores actually have scuba, however, most are simply retail outlets and cannot provide the service, support and expertise that a dive store can. Other than price, there is no reason to buy at these nondive store outlets.
Mail order. Catalog buying is a popular and useful way to shop, particularly when some products are not available locally or may be purchased through a catalog for significantly less money (including shipping and handling charges).
However, little service or support is available by mail order, and gear that is not purchased locally may not be able to be serviced locally and may have no warranty.
Dive Shops & Diving Centers. Retail dive shops have been the focal point of local dive support since recreational diving became popular. Your local dive store can provide instruction, dive travel, local dives, inspection and repair services, compressed air, rental equipment, equipment advice and the opportunity to look at, feel, compare and test equipment before purchase. In addition, the store can back up products immediately if necessary. Personal contact is also an important part of a dive store’s value. In short, a dive store is in a better position than a mail-order dealer to provide the service and support you need and should expect.
How do I clean and Maintain Scuba Diving Gear?
Scuba diving gear is designed to be rugged and durable. Most items will last you many years if you take care of them properly. Some top tips from old pros:
- Immerse your gear in fresh, clean water after use.
- Partially fill your BC with fresh water, slosh it around, then drain.
- Allow each item to dry thoroughly before storing in a cool, dry and clean area.
- Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, heat and chlorinated water.
- Do not allow contact with petroleum products or other solvents.
- Protect your gear from physical shock when transporting it, especially on airlines.
- Do not allow moisture into the air intake of your regulator’s first stage, and do not depress the purge on your second stage unless the unit is pressurized.
- At least once per year (more if you dive frequently) have your BCD, regulator and computer serviced. The leading cause of equipment failure is lack of maintenance.
Final thoughts
Keep in mind that you won’t necessarily need to get everything on this scuba diving equipment list. Every diver—and every dive—is different. You may need more or less gear, depending on the conditions of your dive and what your goals are. These are just some of the most essential items that will help keep you safe while allowing you to enjoy your dive to the fullest.
Having your own gear is essential to enjoy this sport fully and to maximize your comfort and safety. Just remember that your experience with equipment is limited. You’ve got to study the field and understand what you want — and need — out of each piece of gear.
